The perigee moon had just risen as the group of seven crossed the Waipawa River and trudged up the hill to the car park and the welcoming sight of the waiting van, after four hours coming downhill through untracked territory.

The climb up to the Three Johns, from Waipawa Saddle

Nine hours earlier, we had set off up-river, in calm conditions with the cloud surrounding the tops dissipating to reveal blue skies. We made Waipawa Saddle in good time and, looking back down into the river, saw just how steep the climb is.

After a photo-stop, we turned left towards the East and started the short, sharp climb up to the Three Johns (1569m), sidling around to a large rock just below the summit on the main ridge. On peering over the edge or eastern side, we studied the steep grassy slope we would be going down to reach the stream below.

It was noon, so we settled down for lunch on the western sunny side, out of the cool breeze with spectacular views over to Te Atuaoparapara (1687m), the Hikurangi Range and – to the south – Rangioteatua (1704m). Out came the GPS and maps to help identify Mangaweka (1731m), the highest point in the Ruahine Range. There were more group photos to record the scene, GPS readings of the rock we were behind, and then it was over the edge!

Reaching the headwaters of Middle Stream

It was steep and icy in places, but not too difficult and soon we reached the start of the small side stream leading into Middle Stream. We made good progress at first, but later slowed as the rocks became slippery. Careful footwork was necessary.

For four hours, we manoeuvred our way round boulders, slid (mostly on our bottoms) down, over or round waterfalls, scrambled through buddleia and tutu and finally arrived at the track to the grassy banks by the Smith Stream track.

Most were wet, some more than others, depending on the deepness of the stream they had fallen into. It was so good to finally be out of the cold water. With time and daylight against us, we soon got warm hightailing it across the grassy track back to the Waipawa River and the comfort of our warm van. Thanks, folks, for not being grumpy!

The group photo before going over the edge

The four members who had done a shorter day, had to wait for us to return. Thanks to them, and Colin for getting us home just in time for some of us to go out again for dinner that night!

Party A – to Middle Stream via Three Johns: Geoff Donkin, John Dobbs, Jenny Burns, Simon Hill, Julia Mackie, reporter Alison Greer and visitor Phil Enticott

Party B – to Smith Stream: Colin McNatty, Sue Martin, Marc Marchal and Isobel Holdaway

Wednesday Trampers? Saturday Trampers? As of now, there is no such thing. Only trampers from the Napier club. All it took was an ANZAC day off work to complete the transition. With at least one long-serving member tramping on a Wednesday for the very first time, it had to be a good day, and it was.

The author, doing his part in pulling pinus contorta

There were 16 of us, using the van plus one car. The weather forecast was for a cool start and a clear sunny day with little wind. It was 8 deg C when we arrived at the Lakes car park.

The aim was to complete the circuit formed by ascending Rogue Ridge, traversing the tops to Mt Kaiarahi at 1507 metres and then descending Mackintosh Spur to the Mackintosh Hut and returning via the Mackintosh car park, where the van would be waiting, thanks to Vic.

Fourteen of us set off towards The Rogue, leaving two of the party to do their own thing. (Thankfully, Vic was one of the two, as he was to bring the van around later in the day.) The first crossing of the Tutaekuri only meant a few wet feet, as the river was running very low.

At the junction that was “Rogue to the left” or “less adventurous to the right” (shortcut to Mackintosh), we said goodbye to three of the party and set off to The Rogue. Ascending the Rogue was a steep climb but not as bad as the rumours would have you believe. We arrived at the top of the ridge to be met by panoramic views of the surrounding ridges and a clear view of Mt Ruapehu in the distance. Ruapehu has very little snow for this time of year. The wind was slight but very chilly, so we did not hang around.

The only negative on this trip was the encroachment of pinus contorta. It was everywhere – and spreading. Scenic views today will soon become lost tomorrow when the growth blocks us out. Track maintenance will be critical if the next generation of trampers wants to find a way through. We did our bit by pulling them out by the roots, literally in the hundreds.

We had lunch at Mt Kaiarahi in the lee of the wind and bathed in sunshine. One of the party brought shame on the group by checking her cellphone, and then losing it amongst the undergrowth. The final straw was a request from this new-age technocrat for someone else with a phone to call her, so as to help the search for a ringing phone.

Lunch, out of the wind

We arrived at Mackintosh Hut at about 2.30 pm and had a short break on the veranda before setting off for the final leg. There was no indication that the three strays from our group had been there for lunch as expected. However, between there and the car park there was evidence of their presence by the number of uprooted contorta. Well done Paul.

From the hut, the track leads back to the Tutaekuri River for the second crossing of the day and there are a few slips to negotiate, which would raise the heart rate of the less adventurous. The river has a much increased flow but thankfully a bridge keeps the feet dry. From there it is up, up, up, to the car park where the transport is waiting as arranged. In total, we were out for seven hours on a fantastic day. The Saturday Trampers managed to keep up and hopefully we made them welcome enough to see them all again.

Trampers: John Marshall, Sue Martin, Sue Titter, Jude Paton, Alison Greer, Viv Waterer, Isobel Holdaway, Murray Goss, Vic Bullock, Paul Exeter, Peter Slagter, John Burrell, Jenny Burns, Robyn Smith, Rosemary Jeffery and reporter Kelvin Shaw

Three of the group of 16 decided to do the tradition route of 66. There was a cool breeze across Armstrong Saddle. Further around on the track to the Top Maropea junction, we could only see the base of Ruapehu. We headed down to the saddle, up the the patchy scrub area. Further up the track, we looked back and saw the Patiki Four on the skyline, heading up to first high point. We also saw a group on the high point near Sunrise Hut.

Once we got to the first high point, going was easier. Then it was along the tops to the trig, across a rocky/shingle bit and down the shingle slide. Shingle slides are always fun.

Our usual lunch spot by the tarm

At our regular lunch spot by the tarn, we joined two others who were doing the same trip. After lunch, we headed off around to the drop-off point. Is it this spur or is it the next one? Alison said she was told by Ted that you go further around than you would think before you drop off. Looking around, we could see a cairn that marked the drop-off position.

The drop off from '66' to the tarns

It does not take long to get to the Waipawa Saddle if you are on the right track. Heading down the Waipawa River, the going at the top end was OK. Further down, there is a lot more Tutu (Coriaria arborea) and buddleia scrub. Cairns had been put out recently to show where the track goes from the river into the scrub. Further down, someone had spent time cutting the track through the toi toi.

Closer to the North Arm, the river bed becomes more open. We decided to continue via the branch track which lead to the main Sunrise track. We got back to the van about five minutes before the Patiki Four.

66 Party: Paul Hendy, Alison Greer and reporter Geoff Donkin

A large group set out on Saturday morning in the direction of the Sunrise Hut. We arrived there around 10.00 for morning tea. I’d been to 66 a couple of times and therefore decided to join Ted, Paul and Viv, who were going to Patiki. The first half hour or so was straightforward, following the tops. In the cold wind, I was sure I had made a good decision, and indeed as we turned away from the tops onto the ridge on our right, the wind fell.

Sunrise Hut, with Patiki on the right horizon

We had a couple of minor issues following the ridge, where slips at both sides had only left a narrow sandy mini ridge to walk over. After that, we entered bush. I quite enjoy a bit of bush bashing and this was not too bad. The bush descends to a gully, from where we climbed back up to the peak. There’s no path anywhere, so it took us some time, but by 12.15 we reached Patiki 1370m in beautiful sunny weather.

We stopped for lunch, out of the breeze in the tussock grass. The plan was to follow the main ridge down and then angle to the right towards the Triple X Hut. Within 10 minutes from our lunch, we found ourselves in quite dense bush. Paul decided to try to skirt the dense stuff to the right and disappeared from our views in no time. We waited a while for him in a clearing, and tried to yell him back towards us, but each reply seemed further away.

Ted had in the meantime scouted the area and not found a passage through the dense bush. We were now convinced that Paul was on a smaller ridge to our left, which looked like beech forest and we decided to give up on plan A and follow him down that ridge. Five minutes later, the four of us were back together and started descending the ridge. With all the previous rainfall, it turned out to be a slippery affair. More than once did I find myself slipping, falling, stumbling and hugging trees. I was in good company; all of us took a close look at the forest floor at some stage. Once, we thought we had found one of those lovely shingle slides; unfortunately the one we followed end in a small fall, and we had to climb back up and cross over to the next ridge. This one did get us down to the Triple X stream.

From here, I was sure, it was a simple affair of following the river. Unfortunately, the growth on both sides of the river was so dense that we were forced to enter the forest above the river again and try to get out that way. By now, it was around 15.00 and I was trying to remember how much clothes I had stuffed in my backpack; it no doubt can be bitterly cold at night in that damp bush. I shouldn’t have worried though, as suddenly Ted made a sharp turn to the right and we connected with the bottom part of the Sunrise track and by 16.30 were back at the cars after some five hours of bush bashing, which by then had lost most of its appeal.

Did I enjoy it? I guess I did. Would I do it again? Certainly not tomorrow. Apparently it takes 18 years to convince yourself that it is a good idea to go to Patiki and follow the main ridge down…

Trampers: Ted Angove, Paul Exeter, Viv Bramley and reporter Marc Marchal

The scheduled trip was to have been to Te Waewae but again it didn’t happen. Judging by the state of the Main Highway after the recent heavy rain, we probably would not have made it. The highway was a massive mess of slips. One rock which we had to detour round was bigger than the van. So it was Plan B, Boundary Stream.

Vic, determined not to get his boots wet

The day was perfect…the best of the summer so far…..which wasn’t hard. The van with eight on board stopped at the top end of the Boundary Stream Walkway. We checked out the new Kaka enclosure which is opposite. Looks good…just waiting on the Kaka now (apparently due in Sept.). Then it was off round the Matai loop and down the track to exit, at the Shines Falls car park ,to the van which was kindly ferried round.

We soon split into a fast pack and a slow pack, with the latter spending more time to enjoy the bush and in particular the birdsong. It was a great day for the birds. The dawn chorus lasted till well after lunch. DoC must have the predators well under control there. The regenerating bush, in particular Rewa Rewa, also confirmed this. We did however see very recent sign of deer on the track and also evidence of pigs. Some of the Kakabeak plants we had planted with DoC look real good but others not so and some had succumbed to the weeds.

Shine Falls a spectacular view

The recent rain meant the stream was high and a dry boot crossing was out of the question and care was needed. Shines Falls looked really good although the photos don’t convey it. There was the mist and spray all round just like at Niagara but not quite as much noise!

On the way home we took a detour to check out the north section of the loop road back to the highway.Like most “shortcuts” it wasn’t a shortcut but the views were good and we can cross it off our bucket lists.It was something new for all of us.We also checked out Lake Tutira which was full to overflowing.

Those of us,Paul Exeter,Peter Slagter,John Marshall, Sue Marshall,Isobel Holdaway,Vivian(a visitor),Vic Bullock and Ken Ross

The bush track, with ferns, tawa, and beech trees in the forest

Dianella Nigra (NZ Blueberry) along the track

Moerangi Hut

After only three and a half easy-going hours, we arrived at Moerangi Hut and shared with three pleasant hunters, leaving just two bunks to go. That seemed like a nice number, so later in the afternoon when a helicopter landed right outside and the pilot came over to see if he could take more hunters off, we did our best to shoo them away – and were successful! Actually, as we were to discover throughout our tramp, most hunters were being dropped off at other than their preferred choice or hut or campsite and most appeared to be in for five days.

The interior of Rogers (Te Wairoa) Hut

Saturday – To Mangakahika Hut
Same, same weather, maybe less drizzle. A superb easy benched track heading east towards Rogers (Te Wairoa Hut) is now high above the Moerangi Stream, whereas when Alison and I came through this way six years ago, the route was in and out of the river. Some big trees had fallen in places. Suddenly, a visual delight – masses of sublime Raupeka orchids (Earina autumnalis) in bloom, with masses of tiny white fragrant flowers. Despite being relatively common and not threatened, this was the only spot we saw them.

Rogers Hut, built in 1952, is a real gem – characterful, inside lined with slab beech (exterior is flat iron) and with a lovely stained glass window too. We enjoyed having a brew and snack on the deck for elevenses.

Heading in a southerly direction now, we were basically in a stream valley. The stream was higher than normal and a little discoloured. We enjoyed three encounters with pairs of whio along this section, their plaintive calls quite loud. Other birdlife today mainly consisted of inquisitive tomtits, always delightful.

A place called “Colin’s Campsite” was a tad run down, but occupied by three groups of hunters. The track is a rough sidle by Te Wairoa Stream, before it climbs to a low saddle, and drops down again. A while later, we met an elderly couple in gumboots! They turned out to be retired farmers from the Matamata area and had been choppered into Mangakahika Hut for five nights and had actually been aboard the chopper that we had shooed away from Moerangi Hut! The hut was only a little way further but after crossing the bridge, we found the connecting track had been washed away and it took us a while to figure out where the hut was. Shortly after, the gumbooted ones arrived. They turned out to be the only others at the hut and were very fine company. We got the fire going and had a pleasant afternoon and evening.

Leaving Central Te Hoe Hut, after a cuppa

Sunday – To Upper Te Hoe Hut
Same, same weather. Bit more drizzle. The track now tended to have more tree-fall, washouts and reroutes, and more muddy sections, crossing the Bullring, a clearing where hunters had set up camp. We heard more stags roaring too. By 11am, we had arrived at Central Te Hoe Hut where a group of hunters were packed and ready to be choppered out, but the low clag made it seem doubtful they would leave today. We enjoyed a brew and snack before tackling a big hill and rocky cliff face with a wire rope for support, all the while getting views to the river below. Lots of lovely fungi varieties, great wads of mosses hanging from the trees which were now in swirling mist.

Upper Te Hoe, with the hunter's mess

We found a terrific spot on a little knoll for late lunch before continuing on ever upwards, eventually arriving at Upper Te Hoe Hut by 3.30pm – a 7hrs 20mins day. The hut was occupied by an older father hunter, his two hunting sons and a relative from New York State plus a lovely Labrador dog called Hunter! The place was untidy – and with considerable alcohol supplies, a slightly rowdy time was inevitable.

They weren’t too bad, but three of us decided it was better to put the tents up on the grass beside the hut while Jenny braved the night inside. A good night eventuated, in very calm conditions.

A glimpse through the trees at sunshine on the Te Hoe track

Monday – To Pukahunui road end and home
The morning dawned spectacularly bright and clear! Hooray! Tents sodden with dew and the bush the same way, but that didn’t matter. We waited until the hunters had set out for the day before packing up, so were not away until 8.30am. Track often overgrown and slippery, leading to some interesting tumbles and slides. We met a young hunting couple and their mate who had established a fly camp a bit beyond the track junction. This made a great spot to stop and enjoy the now hot sunshine bathing the saddle, with extensive views in several directions at once.

It was just after midday when we were within sight of the road end and saw Ted and Paul on a rise, aiming their cameras in our direction. It was nice to see them again and to have Alison’s car driven around for us.

Overall it had been an excellent tramp and quite comforting not to have been shot at, considering the high numbers of hunters in the forest park at this time!
On the way home, we just had to stop in at the Tarawera Tavern for a coffee and pie, which we enjoyed in blazing sunshine. The place has new owners and was really humming with people.

Trampers: Julia Mackie, Alison Greer, Jenny Burns and reporter John Dobbs

A group of seven set off from Makahu car park at 8.45 am, passed Makahu Hut and moved onto the climb to discover why two Wednesday trampers who had joined the previous Saturday group only got as far as Kaweka J. We were informed it was due to the windy conditions, but the truth may be that they just plain piked out when they saw the steep terrain ahead of them. But we toughed it out and made the top in 1 3/4 hours, then turned west and headed down the ridge, arriving at Back Ridge Hut by noon.

Jenny on the tops of the Kaweka Range

Back Ridge Hut, with the Kaweka Range behind to be climbed after lunch

All was not lost as Peter got his second wind and we were away with just stops to admire the great view and soak in the amazing day.

We arrived back at the van 3.45pm to find John and Vic waiting for us.

Vic had set off on a pine tree-cutting mission only to find someone had beaten him to it, so he continued on to Kaweka J. I’m beginning to think he must hold the club record for that climb.

Now John was not letting on where he went, but did let slip that it was nice and sunny at Kaweka Flat; mind you, that was also the direction the kiwi-hunting ladies may have ended back at, after their helicopter ride!

Trampers: Peter Slagter, Keith Moretta, Kelvin Shaw, Gary Bowler, Alison Greer, Jenny Burns, John Marshall, Vic Bullock and reporter Robyn Smith

Congratulations to all those who took part, and thanks to our supporters.

The official results are on the web site.
To summarise our fantastic effort I have tabled them below:

Viv Bramley 12th Runner 8 hrs 16 Min 22 secs
Dave Hills 9th Walker Classic 8 26 13
Julia Mackie 2nd Walker Classic 8 32 13
John Dobbs 11th Walker Classic 8 48 13
Alison Greer 3rd Walker Classic 9 01 13
Kelvin Shaw 20th Walker Classic 9 53 13
Jenny Burns 7th Walker Open 9 53 13

Triple Trampers Team: John Burrell, Dennis Mitchell, Sue Martin 4th 8hrs 02Min 13sec

The start for the walkers, l to r, Julia, Jenny, John D, John B, Kelvin, Alison and Dave

The 7.15am start for the walkers meant an early rise at home. We had all been putting in the work to ensure that we were going to be fit enough, and we all had the iTRAMP logo either pinned to our backpacks or T-shirts. We heard a lot of good comments on our performance as we were easily identifiable.

The course was in reverse this year, and so we walked up Te Mata Peak first. Then, down the goat track and through the redwoods, and out onto a farm track. From here it was through private farmland, to the first transition at the cattle yards on Tauroa Station. Approaching it, Murray White recognised me, and brought a smile. He was carrying the NTC club banner. Many thanks Murray for your support. We all loved the thought and effort you made.

Kelvin, the club's organiser had this in mind the whole way around

The support crew of Yvonne and Dianne was at the transition, with encouragement and assistance. I dropped off my light jacket and wallet which would not be needed from my day pack. Had a long overdue drink and got my nut stash out. A few minutes later, onwards to cross the Tuki Tuki river. It was only up to knee height, and refreshing.

Through a field and then across a road, and onto more farmland. A small ridge to climb, where I caught up with Dave Hills. We could not see Kahuranaki yet. Dave moved ahead (as he always did on the downhill), and then we came in sight of the next peak. A small hill climb onto a limestone access road, leading up to Mt Kahuranaki trig. The wind was cold and the time check volunteers were huddled behind the car to get out of the wind. I asked one of them to take my photo, and then off again, out of the wind and downhill.

It was downhill on the access road, and onto Rochfort Road. John Dobbs, Dave Hills and I had met up again, but then soon moved on at our respective paces to the next transition on the river bank, where the support team gave out barley sugar. This river crossing was again refreshing, and with Mt Erin in sight, the motivation was running high to get up there.

From Mt Erin, Mt Kahuranaki in the background with the Tuki Tuki below

The route was marked over the farmland, but a short cut straight up was a breeze. The peak was not as cold, but another photo with Mt Kahuranaki and the river in the background below was taken. The course then followed a number of ridges to the ‘Trees’ then it was across the ‘flats’ before ascending one more ridge before heading to Kopanga Road and a tarseal section to Iona Road and Tanner Street before heading for the finish via Joll Road and Campbell Street. Finally it was through the school and into the Havelock North Domain.

The finish line, John B and Viv not in the picture

It had been a long way, 47km and three peaks. The finish line in sight, yeah… and I still felt good.

But would I do it again? I don’t think so.

The weather forecaster got it right. It was raining. So we went down the mountain seeking some shelter at least.

We headed for the Ohakune Old Coach Road (OCR) – and no, Ohakune does not have an Official Cash Rate. It runs from Ohakune to Horopito along the route of the old coach road. No surprises there.

The magnificent curved viaduct

We didn’t do the through trip but settled for an in and out walk as far as the Hapuawhenua rail viaducts, starting from the Ohakune end. There are two. One is a magnificent tall, curved, riveted lattice iron structure no longer in service and the new one is also a magnificent tall, curved structure but of concrete. The old one has been made safe (OSH-proofed) as an historical monument and given Cat 1 status by the Historic Places Trust. It alone is well worth the walk in. The DoC website is also well worth a visit to get some views you can’t see by walking. Note the lack of vegetation at the time it was built.

Of the walk itself: Great. I particularly liked the gradients, being limited by the available horsepower when the original road was built. There were some views out over the adjacent farmland but on the whole we were walking through lush native bush, mature shrubs and tall trees. You could almost imagine horse-drawn coaches coming towards you along the broad track with overhanging trees. The original rough flagstones are still present, particularly on the steeper bends.

We investigated a disused rail tunnel which – like the viaducts – was curved, thus adding to the experience. Why the curves? It was rugged country in which to build a rail line. The information boards provided along the track were interesting but the one at the viaduct was particularly so. It showed the primitive conditions for the workmen and the hardships they endured while building the original viaduct back in 1907/8.

Unlike the bridge builders, we were able to retreat to the comfort of dry clothes and then hot coffee at an Ohakune café. Yes, we had had a good day; not badly impacted by the weather and definitely more laid back than our first two days on the mountain.

With many away to Mt Ruapehu for the week, only five set out for the day tramp to Shutes along the Taihape Road, just past Gentle Annie.

The day started out a bit drizzly but it was mild with no wind, driving along. The turn-off road is no longer marked with any signage and with talk of heading to the nearest coffee shop in Taihape instead, the road was passed until a couple of kilometres later, farmland appeared, meaning a U-turn was necessary.

The road in to the Comet was in good order and we set off at 8.45am. It was good to see the new DOC signage at the start. The track is in good condition and before long we zig-zagged our way up onto the plateau and through the wilding pines. No drizzle at all and gradually the sky revealed a few blue patches. The patch of beech forest was a pleasant contrast, as were the numerous spotted orange mushrooms.

An early lunch at Shutes Hut

Then the big descent down to the Taruarau River, seemingly endless, but uneventful. The river itself was running clear and normal so only just over the knees at the crossing.

Then the traverse up and around and through the grassland to Shutes Hut. This section a tad damp and slippery at times. We made very good time, arriving at the hut at 11.15am or 2 hrs 30mins, or at least 30 mins shorter than the DOC signage indicated. As the conditions were now rather nice, we had some group photos and used some huge cut logs for a picnic table just in front of the hut. Jude read us some entries and stories from both hut books and we reacquainted ourselves with the history of the hut and the area. The hut is unique in being stone built and from the stock droving days. It was constructed in 1920 and makes for a very comfortable place, being in great order and tidiness.
Around noon, we set off to retrace our steps, but not until we had researched all the other track and hut options we could do from here, such as Diane’s or Ruahine huts.

The comfy interior of Shutes Hut

Julia had taken her boots off to cross the river and had on sandals; she was pleased to find her boots exactly where she left them.

Then the steady grind up, up, up. No issues encountered, very little birdlife, still no drizzle or wind, so overall ideal conditions.

In fact, we were back to the Comet and the van in 2hrs 40mins, so a marvellous effort really. The three who have entered the Triple Peaks Challenge race next Saturday certainly got a good workout too!

The clagginess and hint of drizzle remained at the Comet, however.

Four of the party decided a coffee or similar refreshment at Taradale’s Duke of Gloucester was a fitting end to a very pleasant and sociable group tramp.

Trampers: Julia Mackie, Viv Bramley, Jude Paton, Marc Marchal and reporter John Dobbs