Walking back in time on an old Māori trail

Matemateāonga Track, Whanganui National Park, Anzac Weekend, 25-27 April 2025
Banner Photo: The sunrise from Pōuri Hut

Tramp organiser Sue Martin begins the story:

Day 1: Travel and tramp. Ten experienced trampers left in three vehicles and made their way to Whanganui to be picked up by Eastern Taranaki Shuttles and taken to the start of the track. Carol and Dave Digby were excellent hosts and drivers. Dave, a current tramper, had recently undertaken track and hut maintenance, which we certainly appreciated. We were in good hands.

This track was originally an old Māori trail, and then a road built to connect Raetihi to Stratford but was abandoned due to the First World War. It became a settlers’ dray route. We last tramped this track in 2018. Jenny and I were the only two in the 2025 party who had tramped it previously.

After a full day of driving, we arrived at the start of the track. A compulsory group photo and by 3pm, we were on our way to Ōmaru Hut 5.5km away. The track was well marked, even and easy, with km markers along the route. As we walked the Kohi Saddle, the bush became thicker and denser. In less than 90 minutes, everyone arrived at the hut. Some put up tents as the hut had only eight bunks. A good night’s sleep was had by all.

Day 2: Ōmaru Hut to Pōuri Hut.  Phil Shakespeare continues the tale…

We woke to a beautiful, misty morning – fine weather, though a bit chilly on the fingers for those of us packing up dew-laden tents. Our group left Ōmaru Hut at different times, meandering along the top of the Matemateāonga Range. The trail led us through dense bush on the south-western side, before crossing over to the northern flank.

At one point, a surprise 4G signal distracted more than a few hikers, but this was soon forgotten as we began to catch exciting glimpses of the volcanoes in Tongariro National Park. For those who took the side trip up Mt Humphries, the views reached another level – a stunning 180-degree panorama stretching from Mt Taranaki to Mt Ruapehu.

The final stretch to Pōuri Hut was a steady, gradual climb along a well-maintained track. The hut sits in a grassy clearing that was bathed in warm afternoon sun. After settling in, yoga and stretching were popular pre-dinner activities, rounding off a rewarding day on the trail.

Day 3: Pōuri Hut to Puketōtara Hut   Elly Govers reports…

Everyone was up by 6.30am to watch the beautiful sunrise over Mount Ruapehu. At 7.30, Mark, Fiona and Shona took off, followed by Di and myself ten minutes later, and by the others at 8am. The track to Ngapurua Hut was easy going, with little ups, downs and mud patches, but roughly remaining around 700 metres altitude. Now and then we had a view through the trees onto the Tongariro peaks.

After some time, Di and I caught up with Fiona and Shona, who had found a marker pointing away from the track. We could not see anything looking like a track going in the direction that the marker indicated, so continued on the well-trodden track straight ahead, which proved to be the right decision. After 2 hours and 45 minutes, Di and I arrived at Ngapurua Hut, a relatively new hut (erected in 2010). The views here were not as good as at Pōuri Hut, but again there was ample space to sit outside – thank you for all the picnic tables at the huts – and everyone had a morning tea or early lunch here.

From Ngapurua Hut, the track remains similarly slightly undulating with slippery mud patches on the way, until, in the last 6 km or so, it slowly descends towards Puketōtara Hut. The only challenges here were six or seven fallen trees that blocked the track. Only one had an alternative track going around it, and the others required scrambling under or over or in-between. After another 2 hrs 45 m, I reached the hut, where Mark had already put his tent up. We had all spread out considerably, but by 4pm everyone had arrived safely after a very enjoyable day with amazing bush, the odd slip and slide, and spotting several robins along the track.

Puketōtara Hut has the same design as Ōmaru and Pōuri huts, but like Ōmaru, only has eight bunks. We spent the rest of the afternoon eating whatever was left of our food and enjoying the scenery from a viewpoint behind the hut. Fiona put up her tent and Ali decided to sleep on the deck, where she enjoyed watching the stars.

Day 4: Puketōtara Hut to Whanganui River     And Sue wraps up:

It was an early start for us, because we had to be at the boat ramp at 9am. After a 6am wake-up call, everyone made their way to the viewing seat to witness the stunning sunrise views to the Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu peaks on the horizon. Initially, we were concerned that this section to the river was going to be muddy, slippery but it was exactly the opposite. It was a steep gradient down, parts with man-made steps and tuis delighted us along the route with their birdsong.

The exhilarating jet boat journey along the river to Pipiriki seemed to put the icing on the weekend. After coffee and hot soggy chips at Pipiriki, we shuttled back to Whanganui to our vehicles. Thanks to Fiona, who organised the safe parking of our vehicles over the four days.

Back in town and out of our tramping gear, we sat down to a well-deserved café lunch. Anne had the opportunity to catch up with her son and his wife before she heads off overseas.

Trampers: Phil Shakespeare, Sue Martin, Shona Tupe, Jenny Burns, Elly Govers, Fiona Bryant, Anne Mountfort, Ali Hollington, Di Reid and Mark Jenkins