Napier Tramping Club

based in Hawke's Bay, New Zealand

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Another beautiful break in the Whirinaki

September 26, 2024 by Elly Govers Leave a Comment

Whirinaki FP, Saturday and Sunday 28-29 September 2024
Banner Photo: Whio seen in the Whirinaki stream

Three cars left Park Island at 7am for the Plateau Road car park in the Whirinaki Forest Park. Once we were off the Napier-Taupo road, we found the road along the Waipunga River and through the forestry a challenge as ever, with even more ruts and potholes than before. It took us 2 hours and 15 minutes to reach the car park from Napier.

Six in the group were doing the overnighter to Mangamate Hut, while the other five, including myself, had opted for the day tramp. We started off going all together to Upper Whirinaki Hut. Soon after departure, our track branched off from the main Whirinaki Track to climb up and over a ridge and descend to the Whirinaki River, which at this point is only a small stream.

Upper Whirinaki Hut sits in a sunny clearing

We carried on for another 15 minutes to reach Upper Whirinaki Hut, where we had morning tea/early lunch. The weather was so nice that many of us were tempted to spend the rest of the day here, but duty called. The overnighters left to follow the track along the Taumutu stream towards Mangamate Hut, while we enjoyed the sunshine before retracing our steps to the Whirinaki River.

The cave is well worth a look

From here we followed the track along the river, crossing the water many times, and each time it became a little bit deeper or wider. This track was done up earlier this year, and it is now a true gem in the forest park. It is not difficult to walk, although there are a few fallen trees to climb over, but these now all have steps cut into them. On the way we saw three whio, two of them close by – a real treat.

The track ends at the bridge near the cave. This is where we had lunch, or what was left of it. Two adventurous souls went to explore the cave in some more detail, and it was difficult to pull them back from their adventure and onto the track again.

The final stretch back to the car park via the Whirinaki Track is a bit of a slog, mainly uphill, but the many beautiful trees, including massive beeches, lush tree ferns, mountain cabbage trees and dracophillia made it worthwhile. We arrived back at the car park at about 3.15pm, ready for the rough ride home.

Track junction at Whirinaki stream

Two of us had never been to the Whirinaki Forest Park before. For two others, the Upper Whirinaki Track and hut were new, as was the river track. A very rewarding experience for everyone.

Many thanks to Juliet for the long drive out and back home again.

A few timings, breaks not included: Plateau Road car park to Upper Whirinaki Hut: 1h 30m; Upper Whirinaki Hut to cave: 1h 30m; cave to Plateau Road car park: 1h 30m.

Day trampers: Keith Gore, Paul Hendy, Juliet Gillick, Phil Shakespeare and reporter Elly Govers

Simon Hill reports on the weekenders’ trip:

Mangamate Hut

We six took the Taumutu stream to the turn-off to Mangamate Hut. New steel signs have been installed on several track junctions. We went up the muddy creek, under and over big logs, arriving at 4pm, and settled in for the night. It had been a warm day, and we didn’t need to light the fire.

At 8.30 next morning (and now on daylight saving time), we went back down the muddy stream to the turn-off. From there, it was downstream to the Whirinaki Track and the cave. Lots of bird song on the way.

We then followed the track uphill to the Plateau car park, arriving at 1.30.  It was an hour’s drive on the dusty, potholed road to State Highway 5.  A great weekend in Whirinaki with two fine, warm Spring days.

Overnight trampers: Fiona Bryant, Mark Jenkins, Doug Matheson, Bryan Powlesland, Shona Tupe and reporter Simon Hill

Filed Under: Napier Tramping Club, Recent trips, Whirinaki

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About us

We are a group of like-minded people who love the great outdoors. We tramp mostly in the Hawke’s Bay province, in remote areas such as the Kaweka and Ruahine Ranges; but we also travel longer distances to new places, for longer walks.

The Napier Tramping Club was established in 1974 and has about 70 members. We belong to the Federated Mountain Clubs of NZ Inc (FMC) and run Saturday, full-weekend and Wednesday tramps, every fortnight.

Interested in joining us?

Enjoy the great outdoors, keep fit and get to know others with similar interests.

More information

Latest news

October 2026 News

The headlines: Anniversary dinner Te Puia track hut bookings Track re-opening Extra NTC meeting … Read More

September 2026 News

The headlines: Anniversary dinner Wilding pine update Te Puia track hut bookings Track … Read More

Latest trip

A golden day, crowned with a cry of ‘Oh bugger – a buried bog!’

Useful links

  • Dept of Conservation
  • DoC Huts Use, Kaweka Forest Park
  • Federated Mountain Clubs of NZ (FMC)
  • Heretaunga Tramping Club
  • New Zealand Tramper
  • NZ Walking Access Commission
  • Wanganui Tramping Club

Useful links 2

  • Royal Forest & Bird Protection Society
  • Taraponui i-Networks camera
  • Weather forecast
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