Whirinaki wonderland

Whirinaki FP, Wednesday 10 November 2021

After about a week of poor weather, finally it was a nice-looking day for the large group of 17 trampers keen to get into the Whirinaki area once again. It was also the first chance we have had to enter the Whirinaki Forest for a year or two as the road has just recently been graded, making access possible.

Four cars set off, with low cloud on the Napier-Taupo Road making for a misty start. The entire valley beneath the Mangahururus was blanketed in low cloud, which was quite scenic.

We had a quick toilet stop near the Pohokura Road turn-off and then a relatively easy trip along the newly graded road. The stream crossings were no problem. The only issue was a tree which had fallen across the road and required careful negotiation. As well as the road improvements, the signs also looked new – perhaps DoC is expecting increased numbers using the tracks? After about 45 minutes, we arrived at the Plateau car park and it was immediately obvious we were in for a great day with warm, sunny weather.

We split into two groups with some doing the Upper Whirinaki – Central Whirinaki circuit, and others doing the Central Whirinaki return trip.

John reports on the Central Whirinaki return group:
This tramp always has the perfect start, as it is mostly downhill. It is also conveniently split into roughly two 90-minute sections with the first 90 minutes all being downhill to the swing-bridge and cave. The second 90 minutes are gently undulating with the last section also downhill to Central Whirinaki Hut. In this second section, we inspected all the predator traps and found nine rats which Rosemary kindly disposed of.

We had a leisurely lunch at Central Whirinaki, with no one else around, which was just as well as Margaret decided to do some skinny dipping in the river. Luckily she had her tiny handkerchief to dry off with. No one else was game enough to go for a swim although Johanne went in but not fully (immersed or undressed).

Unfortunately no whio were seen by the hut, which is where I’ve had some good photos in the past. A pair was seen by Alison by one of the bridges on the way back.

Johanne had a stumble over a branch on the way back and gashed her hand, but we gave her first aid, which she was grateful for. The only mildly negative part of the tramp is the last 90 minutes from the swing-bridge. Downhill going in means uphill coming out, and the last part seems never-ending. However we all enjoyed it. It’s always nice being in such beautiful forest even if we don’t know the names of most of the trees. Someone suggested bringing a forest guidebook next time. That could be a good idea.

Geoff reports on the circuit party:

Our group of eight went to Central Whirinaki Hut via Upper Whirinaki Hut. The track to Upper Whirinaki starts off with a bit of a climb followed by a steep descent to the Whirinaki River. Recent track maintenance made the going easier than on past occasions. Just before arriving at Upper Whirinaki Hut, there is a track junction. The track connecting with the Upper Te Hoe – Pukahunui Track used to go straight up the Whirinaki River. It now starts from close to the Upper Whirinaki Hut and links up with the old track by the Whirinaki River about 2 kilometres from the Upper Whirinaki Hut.

At the Upper Whirinaki Hut, we had a break for a drink and something to eat while admiring the cramped top bunks in the hut. We returned to the nearby track junction and headed northwards over a low saddle before descending into a branch of the Taumutu Stream. It is an attractive stream to walk beside. Further down, it linked up with the main stream. The large number of stream crossings meant that we got wet feet.

At the track junction where the wooden bridge crosses the bottom end of the Taumutu stream, we linked up with the main track to Central Whirinaki Hut. Here, three members of our group decided to turn back and head to the Plateau car park at a more leisurely pace. The remaining five headed to Central Whirinaki, meeting members of the other group who were on their way back to the car park. We had lunch at Central Whirinaki and then headed back.

At the wooden bridge over the Taumutu Stream, a mature pair of blue ducks were spotted. They floated down the river, feeding in the rapids with no concern for our presence. A nice bonus. At the swing-bridge, two people decided to visit the cavern while the other three continued on up the track. After the steep bottom section, the track changes to a much easier, steady gradient for the rest of the trip back to the car park – where we found the others resting and socialising. We departed about 4.30, arriving back at 6.30.

A good trip, and nice to see the beautiful Whirinaki bush again. Thanks to Alison for organising the trip, doing a recce a few days earlier to check the condition of the road and for keeping an eye out for the slower club members. And thanks to the drivers for generously taking their vehicles.

Trampers: Central Whirinaki return – Reporter John R, Margaret, Bruce, Shona, Rosemary, Johanna, Sue G, Marie. Upper Whirinaki Circuit – Alison, Barry, John H, reporter Geoff, Juliet, Mary, Denise, Gordon and Peter